Bond2 Design Fonz2 Design Hotrod2 Design Luther2 Design Wedge Design (Click on one of the 5 designs below to download.) Click on the graphic below to download 15 pages (44 designs) of Pinewood Derby designs Let's state right here and now that its the fun of working together, learning and the sportsmanship in racing that's really important in the Pinewood Derby event. This should be a fun event for all involved. If it isn't maybe you're doing something wrong.  There will be only one fastest car but that doesn't mean that everyone else's effort was for nothing. Competition is a good thing. It builds character, teaches us about our temperament and brings humility. Reading this text will not make your car fast but using it can make you and your car more competitive. 1. Fast cars usually have a low profile that offers the least resistance to the air-stream. Character figurines glued to the car and other excessive trim can slow down a car, even if just a little. The aerodynamics of a car can effect the car's performance but it is not the highest priority. 2. Axles. The "nail" axle out of the box will look pretty bright and shiny but its appearance is deceiving. First, it will have at least two metal webs that reach from the nail head to the shaft. These are small but will ride next to the outer wheel surface. Use a fine mill-cut file to remove these webs. Mount the axle in a drill motor or drill press and rev it up to perform the filling tasks. Next, you'll find that axles are out-of-round by as much as 2 to 5 thousandths of an inch. Again file them to make them regular then use 400 grit wet-n-dry sandpaper with water or light oil to polish them back out. Axles should be polished to provide a surface for the wheel to roll without restriction. 3. Weigh the car to the maximum, 5.00 ounces. The higher mass per volume helps overcome drag and friction. If your scale isn't extremely accurate provide an easy way to add or remove weight on race day. Try using wood screws with washers under them you so can add or remove the washers as necessary. 4. Try putting the weight towards the rear of the car. It won't make a huge difference but then every little bit helps. The theory is that the higher weight pushes the car for a longer period of time. 5. Insure that your car is tracking straight. A car that bumps the lane guide more often gets slowed down more often. A "front-end alignment" may be necessary. 6. Use a good dry lubricant. Dry graphite seems to still work better than the white Teflon compounds now available. 7. Insure your wheels roll smoothly and are not binding. A good test is to spin each of your wheels with your finger and let them run to a stop. It should take 20-30 seconds for well tuned and lubricated wheels to stop completely. You may want to rub some dry graphite on the surface of the car body where the inner wheel hub touches. 8. Never, never, never roll your competition pinewood car on the ground or concrete. These rough and dirty surfaces can ruin the car's wheels, axles and alignment. .
Pack 299 - 2012 Pinewood Derby Rules 1) Car Inspections: (Cars inspections will meet the following standards) A) Cars will not exceed 5oz in weight B) Cars must be 1 3/4” between the wheels C) Max width 2 3/4” D) Max Length 7” E) Bottom clearance is 3/8” F) Wheel bearings, washers and bushings are prohibited G) Springs & or starting devices are prohibited H) Cars must be free-wheeling I) Only official Cub Scout Grand Prix Pinewood Derby wheels and Axles (BSA Pinewood Derby) are permitted J) Wheels must be standard width and cannot be weighted. K) Only dry lubricant is permitted 2) Race Rules A) Cars registered prior to 12:00 PM may have a test run on the track prior to racing. Cars registered after 12:00 PM will only be allowed a test run at the discretion of the judges so long as the start of the race is not delayed. B) Cars must be inspected & registered no later than 12:30 PM. C) The Pinewood Derby will start promptly at 1:00 PM. D) All cars will race one time on each lane. E) Racers and cars must be present at scheduled race times or the Racer is disqualified. (Judges must give permission in advance for any exceptions). F) False starts and or any racing errors will be determined and reviewed at the discretion of the judges. If no problems can be attributed to the current cars racing, then the judges may rule to rerun a specific heat and throw out the previous results. Problems related to a car such as wheel alignment or other mechanical issues may be worked on between heats but the race results will stand. G) Touching another Racer’s car is prohibited & at the discretion of the judges can result in disqualification. H) Touching the PWD track is prohibited & at the discretion of the judges can result in disqualification. I) The judges will have the final word and ruling for all contested results whether they are covered in the Race rules or found to be outside of these rules. J) Standings for all ties at the top ten level will be resolved by the best time in a single additional tie breaker heat. K) The race scoring method will be “Time”. L) The “Race Standings” will be determined by the “Single Fastest Heat”. (This means your standing will be determined by the fastest time your car has run in a given heat over the entire course of the race.)